How to Replace Rubber Tracks

How to Replace Rubber Tracks

Introduction

Replacing rubber tracks isn't complicated, but doing it wrong can damage your undercarriage or leave you with improperly tensioned tracks that fail early.

This guide walks through the complete process for skid steers and compact track loaders. Mini excavator replacement follows similar principles with some undercarriage differences.

Time Required: 1-2 hours per side (experienced), 2-3 hours per side (first time)

Difficulty: Moderate – requires basic mechanical skills and proper equipment

Tools and Equipment Needed

Essential Tools

  • Floor jack or equipment jack (rated for machine weight)
  • Jack stands (rated for machine weight)
  • Track tensioning tool or grease gun with adapter
  • Pry bar (36" or longer)
  • Ratchet set with extensions
  • Dead blow hammer or rubber mallet
  • Measuring tape
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses and gloves

Helpful Additions

  • Come-along or chain hoist
  • Track removal tool/spreader (some machines)
  • Second person (makes alignment easier)
  • Shop rags and degreaser

Safety Equipment

  • Safety glasses (mandatory)
  • Steel-toe boots
  • Gloves
  • High-visibility vest if working in active area

Before You Start: Safety Warnings

⚠️ Read This Section Completely

  1. Never work under an unsupported machine. Jacks fail. Always use rated jack stands.

  2. Release all track tension before removal. Compressed tracks store significant energy.

  3. Wear safety glasses. Debris, hydraulic fluid, and tension release can cause eye injuries.

  4. Keep hands clear of pinch points. Tracks are heavy and shift unpredictably during removal/installation.

  5. Work on level ground. Slopes increase tip-over risk during jacking.

  6. Engage parking brake and remove key. Machines have started during track work.

Step 1: Position the Machine

  1. Move the machine to a flat, solid surface (concrete or compacted gravel ideal)
  2. Engage the parking brake
  3. Lower any attachments to the ground
  4. Shut down the engine and remove the key
  5. Place wheel chocks in front of and behind the opposite track

Step 2: Release Track Tension

This is the critical safety step. Rubber tracks are held at high tension; releasing that tension safely is essential.

Locate the Tensioner

Most CTLs and skid steers have a grease-type tensioner located: - Near the front idler (most common) - Accessible through an access panel or cover - Identified by a grease fitting and relief valve

Release Procedure

  1. Locate the tension relief valve (usually a bolt or screw near the grease fitting)
  2. Place a container below to catch grease
  3. Slowly loosen the relief valve—DO NOT remove completely
  4. Allow grease to drain until track visibly loosens
  5. Track should have significant slack when properly released

Warning: If grease doesn't flow or track doesn't loosen, STOP. There may be a blockage or different tensioning system. Consult your operator's manual.

Step 3: Raise the Machine

  1. Position the jack under a rated lift point (check operator's manual)
  2. Slowly raise the machine until the track clears the ground by 4-6 inches
  3. Place jack stands under secure frame points
  4. Lower the jack until the machine rests on the stands
  5. Test stability before proceeding—push on the machine gently

Common Lift Points: - Under the main frame rail - Designated jack points (marked with jack symbol) - Under the loader arm pivot (if rated)

Never lift from: - Under the track frame - Sheet metal or covers - Unsupported cab structures

Step 4: Remove the Old Track

Sprocket-First Method (Most Common)

  1. Rotate the track so the slack is at the top, between idler and sprocket
  2. Using a pry bar, work the track off the rear sprocket first
  3. Once clear of the sprocket, rotate the track manually toward the front idler
  4. Work the track off the front idler
  5. Let the track drop and slide it out from under the machine

Tips for Stubborn Tracks

  • Use a dead blow hammer to break seized contact points
  • Apply penetrating oil to the sprocket teeth if corroded
  • A come-along can help pull the track off the sprocket
  • Don't force it—if truly stuck, check for debris or damage

Step 5: Inspect the Undercarriage

With the track removed, inspect all undercarriage components:

Check These Components:

Front Idler - Spin freely? (should rotate smoothly) - Visible wear or flat spots? - Seals leaking?

Rear Sprocket - Teeth worn to points? - Missing or cracked teeth? - Excessive play?

Rollers (if equipped) - Spin freely? - Flat spots or uneven wear? - Leaking seals?

Track Frame - Cracks or bends? - Debris buildup? - Wear on guide surfaces?

Now is the time to replace worn components. Installing new tracks on worn sprockets or idlers shortens track life significantly.

Step 6: Clean the Undercarriage

Before installing new tracks:

  1. Remove all debris from the track frame
  2. Clean the sprocket teeth
  3. Clear debris from idler and roller surfaces
  4. Check that the tensioner cylinder is clean
  5. Apply light oil or grease to wear surfaces (not sprocket teeth)

Step 7: Install the New Track

Preparation

  1. Verify the new track is the correct size (width x pitch x links)
  2. Check the direction arrow on the track (if marked)
  3. Ensure tension is fully released

Installation Process

  1. Position the Track
  2. Lay the new track flat on the ground in front of the machine
  3. Feed the back end under the machine toward the rear sprocket

  4. Engage the Sprocket

  5. Lift the track onto the rear sprocket
  6. Align the drive lugs with the sprocket teeth
  7. The sprocket should engage 3-4 teeth minimum

  8. Pull Track Forward

  9. Pull the front of the track up and over the front idler
  10. Use a pry bar to help seat the track if needed
  11. Ensure the track is centered on the idler

  12. Check Alignment

  13. The track should run straight on all components
  14. Guide lugs should be centered in the guide channel
  15. No rubbing on the track frame

  16. Preliminary Tension

  17. Add just enough tension to remove major slack
  18. Don't fully tension yet

Step 8: Lower the Machine

  1. Raise the machine slightly with the jack
  2. Remove the jack stands
  3. Slowly lower the machine to the ground
  4. Remove the jack

Step 9: Set Final Track Tension

Proper tension is critical. Too loose = track comes off. Too tight = accelerated wear on all components.

Tension Procedure

  1. With the machine on the ground, drive forward and reverse 10 feet
  2. Shut down and measure track sag:
  3. Find the midpoint between front idler and rear sprocket
  4. Press down on the track
  5. Measure the sag (gap between track and frame)

Tension Specifications (General Guidelines)

Machine Type Recommended Sag
Most CTLs 1" - 1.5"
Mini Skid Steers 0.75" - 1.25"
Mini Excavators 0.75" - 1"

Always verify with your operator's manual—specs vary by manufacturer.

Adjusting Tension

  • Too loose: Add grease through the tensioner fitting
  • Too tight: Relieve grease through the relief valve

Repeat the measure-adjust cycle until sag is within spec.

Step 10: Test and Break-In

Immediate Testing

  1. Start the machine and drive forward 50 feet
  2. Stop and visually check track alignment
  3. Drive in reverse 50 feet
  4. Make several turns in each direction
  5. Check tension again and adjust if needed

Break-In Period

New tracks stretch slightly during the first 10-20 hours. During this period:

  • Check tension daily
  • Expect to add tension 2-3 times as the track breaks in
  • After 20 hours, tension should stabilize

Troubleshooting: Common Installation Problems

Track Won't Seat on Sprocket

  • Tension not fully released
  • Sprocket teeth worn or damaged
  • Wrong track size (pitch mismatch)

Track Runs Off-Center

  • Debris on idler or sprocket
  • Worn idler bearing
  • Bent track frame
  • Wrong guide type

Can't Achieve Proper Tension

  • Tensioner cylinder scored or damaged
  • Blockage in grease passage
  • Need to add grease to cylinder (may take significant amount on new install)

Track Makes Noise After Installation

  • Too tight (reduces as tension adjusted)
  • Debris between track and components
  • Sprocket or idler bearing failing

Pro Tips

  1. Replace tracks in pairs. Mismatched wear causes handling issues.

  2. Take photos before removal. Reference for alignment and routing.

  3. Order the right tension grease. Some systems require specific lubricants.

  4. Mark your track direction. Prevents installing backward on subsequent changes.

  5. Check tension in working conditions. Cold tracks tension differently than warm.

When to Call a Professional

Consider professional installation if:

  • You don't have proper lifting equipment
  • The tensioning system is unfamiliar or damaged
  • Undercarriage components need simultaneous replacement
  • The machine has an unusual or complex track system

Track installation is a common service at equipment dealers and many independent shops. Typical labor runs $150-300 per track.

Conclusion

Replacing rubber tracks is straightforward with the right tools, proper safety precautions, and attention to tension settings. Take your time, especially on your first replacement, and don't skip the break-in tension checks.

Need tracks for your machine? Use our [Track Finder] or call [Phone Number] for help selecting the right size and pattern.

TrackTECH supplies contractor-grade rubber tracks with 24-month warranty and free shipping. OEM-fit guaranteed.

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