You bought a used skid steer or compact track loader and it needs tracks. The tempting move is to search the model, find the cheapest belt that looks right, and order it. That is also how a lot of expensive fitment mistakes start.
If the machine runs rubber tracks, the safest buying sequence is simple: identify the exact undercarriage, verify the track size, inspect the wear parts, then choose tread. Do it in that order.
First: is it actually a skid steer or a compact track loader?
A traditional skid steer runs tires. A compact track loader (CTL) runs a dedicated rubber-track undercarriage. People often use “skid steer” for both, so make sure you are buying the right type of product. If your machine is wheeled and you want tracks over the tires, that is a different system from a replacement rubber track for a CTL.
Step 1: do not order by model name alone
Many machines have more than one valid track width, link count or undercarriage configuration. A model search can get you into the right family, but it does not always identify the exact belt on the machine in front of you.
Before buying, collect:
- Machine make and exact model
- Serial number when available
- Track marking from the old belt
- Width, pitch and link count
- Any guide-family marking
- A photo of the track and undercarriage when the configuration is uncertain
Use the Rubber Track Finder to start by machine, then verify the installed size.
Step 2: read the existing rubber-track size
A track marked 450×86×58 means 450 mm width, 86 mm pitch and 58 links. All three numbers matter. A 450×86×55 and 450×86×58 are both 18-inch-class tracks, but they are not the same belt.
If the marking is gone, use the rubber-track measurement guide. Measure width, pitch and link count, then verify the guide geometry and machine application.
Step 3: inspect the used undercarriage before installing new tracks
This is the part many used-equipment buyers skip. A new track can be damaged quickly by worn hardware underneath it.
- Sprockets: look for hooked, pointed or uneven teeth.
- Rollers: check for flat spots, bearing play, noise and leakage.
- Idlers: check side play, seal leakage and uneven wear.
- Tensioner: make sure it still has usable adjustment travel.
- Track frame: look for bent guards, misalignment or packed debris.
Before installing the new belts, use the live CTL undercarriage inspection checklist. If the machine is repeatedly de-tracking or ratcheting, diagnose that first instead of assuming the old rubber was the only problem.
Step 4: choose the correct width before choosing tread
Some CTLs are cataloged with multiple widths. That does not mean you should automatically buy the widest track. Width changes flotation, turning resistance, clearance and ground pressure, but it also has to match the actual undercarriage setup.
Examples in the current TrackTECH catalog include machines with 320/400 mm, 380/400 mm and 400/450 mm configurations. Treat those as verified alternatives that still require configuration confirmation—not as interchangeable accessories.
Step 5: choose tread for the work
| Primary work | Tread direction |
|---|---|
| Concrete, asphalt, hard pack | C-Block or block-style tread for stability and wear |
| Mixed dirt, gravel, general contracting | Zig-Zag, Staggered Block or All-Terrain |
| Mud, snow, soft ground | Multi-Bar or a more open/aggressive tread |
| Steep, loose or severe terrain | X-Terrain / aggressive traction pattern where available |
If the machine works everywhere, choose for the surface where it spends the most hours. For a deeper breakdown, read C-Block vs. Zig-Zag vs. Multi-Bar.
Should you buy the cheapest replacement track?
Price matters, but a used machine is exactly where fitment quality and undercarriage condition matter more. A cheap track on a worn sprocket, wrong guide family or incorrect width is not a bargain. Compare construction, warranty, verified fitment and expected cost per operating hour—not just the invoice total.
One track or a pair?
If both tracks are similarly worn, replace them as a pair. That keeps traction, effective circumference and steering behavior more consistent side to side. If one track failed early and the other is still nearly new, a single replacement can make sense when the size, tread and condition are closely matched.
A practical used-machine buying checklist
- Confirm make, model and serial.
- Read or measure the current track size.
- Verify any configuration-specific fitment.
- Inspect sprockets, rollers, idlers and tensioner.
- Choose the tread for your dominant surface.
- Decide one vs. two tracks based on the condition of both sides.
- Verify fitment before shipment if any dimension or configuration is uncertain.
Need help choosing the track?
Send TrackTECH the make + model + current track size + ZIP code. If the size marking is unreadable, send the machine information and photos of the track/undercarriage so the fitment can be verified before you order.
Start with replacement rubber tracks, the Track Finder, or the rubber-track cost guide.
Popular machine-specific next steps
If you already know the machine, skip the generic category and go straight to the model collection. Examples include Bobcat T650, Bobcat T590, Kubota SVL97-2, CAT 259D3, John Deere 333G, and Takeuchi TL8R2. Those pages combine the current track choices with the machine-specific undercarriage parts TrackTECH has cataloged.
What information should you send for a fitment check?
- Make and exact model
- Current track size marking
- Machine serial number when available
- Photos of the current track and undercarriage if the marking is unreadable
- ZIP code if you also want current delivery / quote information
Quick Buying Answers
Which rubber track rides the smoothest? For a verified fitment that offers it, Multi-Bar is usually the first tread to compare when lower vibration and smoother travel matter most.
Which track lasts longest on pavement? On asphalt and other hard, relatively flat surfaces, Multi-Bar is a strong first choice because it spreads contact across more tread bars. For harsher abrasive work such as broken concrete, rock, or demolition debris, compare a heavier C-Block or Staggered Block pattern instead.
What is the best track for paving? Start with Multi-Bar when ride quality, steady contact, and hard-surface travel are priorities. Confirm that the exact pattern is available for your machine before ordering.
What is the most affordable track? Price depends on the exact width, pitch, link count, guide type, and tread. Once fitment is confirmed, compare the live compatible options rather than changing dimensions just to save money.
What about mud, snow, or soft ground? Zig-Zag is usually the better pattern to compare when cleanout and bite matter more than pavement manners.